Sustainability
We’re on a mission to innovate beyond the take, make and dispose model that is inherent in traditional retail. We aim to educate people about the environmental benefits of reuse and how we can all make smarter choices about our purchases. For us, it's as simple as this: we act as stewards of our planet and we see no reason why we shouldn't also be stewards of our clothing.
Why does it matter?
Used items have already been produced. Raw materials were extracted, water was used, greenhouse gases were emitted - the carbon footprint was already "spent". While we can't undo the manufacturing of an item, we can make sure that we don't waste its resources.
Instead of products sitting idly in closets, you can help contribute to a new retail model where we produce less and become more circular.
To learn about the carbon footprint of used items, read the key terms that we define in the following sections:
CO2e
CO2e, or carbon dioxide equivalent, is a standardized unit used to measure environmental impact. During every step of a product's lifecycle, activities like item production, shipping, and upkeep emit greenhouse gases. Because there are may different types of greenhouse gases that affect global warming, we can compare each type of gas by converting them into a carbon dioxide equivalent. In other words, we determine how much carbon dioxide would create the same environmental impact.
New Item Carbon Footprint
The carbon footprint of an item represents the greenhouse gas emissions that are associated with producing that item. The measurement includes activities like extracting the raw materials, assembling the final product, and finally getting it to the customer. All new items have to go through each of these steps, and we refer to this impact as thenew item carbon footprint.
Item Condition Factor
We thoroughly inspect all of the items that arrive at our warehouse and assign them one of our standardized condition grades. Our condition grades reflect how much wear and tear an item has been through. We factor in characteristics that could shorten the lifespan of each product such as fading, discoloration, or holes. We've mapped each of our condition grades to an approximate amount of usable life left and estimate that most of the time items still have about 80-95% of life left when we resell them. We call this percentage the item condition factor.
Resale Processing Footprint
After we inspect an item, we clean and repair it as needed. We then store the item in our warehouse until it's ready to be shipped to its new home. All of these activities have their own environmental impacts. We rely on a variety of resources, for example, power to run our warehouse, fossil fuels to transport items in trucks, and natural gas to heat our working areas. We include these environmental costs to put an item back into use in theresale processing footprint.
Displacement
Does buying something used really replace the purchase of something new? The answer: it depends! Displacement refers to the idea that a purchase of a used item will replace a purchase of a new item. According to current industry data, in reality, a used purchase only replaces a new purchase 60% of the time. This 60% is the displacement factor. The other 40% of the time, a consumer buys both a used item and a new item.
We recognize that not all consumers fit into the average displacement category. If we factor in a specific customer's displacement factor, the percentage of savings would change.
We also recognize that some product categories are more or less likely to displace a new purchase. For example, a used tent is more likely to displace a new tent compared to a used shirt displacing a new shirt. We are committed to building rigor into your data as more research is published on this topic.
APPLYING THE CALCULATION
“What are the average carbon savings from buying used instead of new?”
Let's start by calculating a resale item carbon footprint. First we add the new item carbon footprint plus the resale processing footprint.
Sometimes customers buy both a used item and a new item. To account for used purchases that do not directly displace new purchases, we multiply the displacement factor, 40%.
We then divide this calculation by the item condition factor. Because used items have slightly less longevity than new ones, we have to consider that a customer's purchase frequency might increase, even if only slightly.
This gives us our resale item carbon footprint.
Lastly, we take the new item carbon footprint, subtract the resale item carbon footprint, and divide by the new item carbon footprint.
The result is the average percent carbon savings from buying an item used instead of new.
Putting it all together, we take the new item carbon footprint, subtract the resale item carbon footprint, and divide by the new item carbon footprint. This gives us the average percent savings from buying used.
Clarifications and assumptions
We make the following assumptions in our calculations:
- This calculation is not a carbon attribution model: it does not tie environmental impact to a particular user.
- When customers shop, the products they look at are the same or very similar regardless of whether the items are used or new. For this reason, we use the same product type for both new and used items in our calculations.
- In terms of care, activity type, washing, and other factors, customers treat their used items the same way they treat new items.
- More durable items deteriorate in condition at a slower rate than less durable items.
- After an item is no longer usable, a consumer purchases another similar item.
- The latest industry research assumes that there is a 60% displacement rate across a range of product categories. We calculate our savings with this displacement rate, but designed the calculation to be flexible and account for updated estimates.
Our waste calculation is a lot simpler than our carbon savings calculation: we use the weight of the garment to calculate pounds of waste diverted from landfills.
We calculated new item carbon footprints with methodology that we developed with Brown & Wilmanns, LLC. We used Ecoinvent v3.6 life cycle assessment database and modeled new item carbon footprints with OpenLCA 1.10.3 life cycle assessment software. We calculated global warming potential values with the ReCiPe 2016 midpoint (H) life cycle impact assessment (LCIA) methodology for all fibers and processes modeled in OpenLCA.